I’ve yet to post a blog about any of the shows thus far in New York mostly because to be perfectly honest I’ve been really rather underwhelmed. If the season is going to go the way it’s been presented to us up until now then it’s going to be quite a dull little affair. Marc Jacobs pure insanity of a show is of course not included in that. It wasn’t great, but it certainly wasn’t dull.
Rodarte is therefore the first show from New York that I’ve felt the need to write about. When I wrote about last season’s show I spoke about there being a true evolution in the brand and the Mulleavy sisters have expanded on that even more for Fall 2012, stepping really quite heavily into the world of tailoring. There was always a very deconstructed organic beauty to their pieces and over the past few seasons we’ve seen a level of polish being added layer by layer. It’s a little bit like their girl is growing up, become a lady. She’s taking on a sophisticated edge and her wardrobe is now gaining a tailored powder blue skirt suit.
I adore the Rodarte of old, with its raw edges and hand worked detailing, but I also love what they’re moving us onto. Their fabric choices are interesting as ever, combined with their own unique style of incorporating prints. This season we see an airbrushed hand print creeping in along with some spotted patterned prints. This collection certainly doesn’t have any Oscar worthy gowns in it and for me the finale falls a little flat. Although perhaps that’s simply because of what’s come before – breathtaking gowns that literally look as if they floated down from the heavens above. Kirsten Dunst isn’t going to find her Oscar gown here, but she’s definitely got some great new knitwear and tailored separates to work into her wardrobe, and the buyers have got themselves some great pieces their customers can actually wear to things other than charity galas.