The Marc Jacobs ticket is the golden ticket of New York Fashion Week; it’s the one everyone waits eagerly for and this year they had quite a while to wait – this year it closes the week as the last major show.
From the wooden boards of the dancehall set to the gold lame curtain hiding the models from view, this collection was about all about a bit of a show. There are elements of the 1920’s about it, with dropped waists and looser flapper-like silhouettes. The fabric choices however are far from period. Plastic like textures are used throughout the collection, in see through cowboy boots through to thin layers over gingham dresses. The gingham when teamed with the cowboy boots and neckerchiefs tied in the hair definitely references something western. It’s a big of a slow burning trend this season but western is certainly there. Trend wise we’re again seeing a large emphasis on reflective and metallic fabrics, radiating a sense of shimmer about them. White’s a key feature here, with the other season’s key colour yellow making only a small appearance in the form of a stripe on a skirt and a sportswear inspired jumper that I would personally wear in a heartbeat.
Something about this collection fails to excite me. It is in my eyes one of the most derivative collection’s Marc has produced of late with the first run of embellished paillette dresses bringing to mind Prada’s Fall/Winter 2011 collection. Perhaps it’s simply a coincidence and I’m reading too much into it but it’s something that struck me almost instantly. I imagine most of the pieces within this collection will be big sellers, it has that distinctive Marc Jacobs aesthetic about it that women just can’t get enough of, but it’s far from one of his strongest collections. Maybe the ever mounting speculation that a deal with Dior is imminent means there was a lot going down in the MJ headquarters during this collection’s production and maybe that could explain the vague sense of distraction that I get from it as a whole.
Either way it is a very Jacobs collection in that it shall no doubt find its way to almost all high street stores in some form, be featured in countless editorial features and be worn by many a leading lady on the red carpet. It in no way hinders my appreciation and love for Mr Jacobs, I’ve just come to expect a little too much perhaps.