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The evolution of the Rodarte brand has been somewhat gradual. The Mulleavy sisters who make up the label started out exploring an elaborate series of fabric manipulation techniques and continued that at a pace that suited them, not necessarily the ever-changing fashion industry. Just as people were beginning to ask if they’ve maybe had their moment they took a bit of a new direction. To me the Spring/Summer 2012 collection marks the third of their newer evolved collections, and here they continue to play around with their prints and techniques in a new way, moving the brand forward into new territory.

Rodarte brought us un-fished raw construction in its most beautiful forms and now they’re able to deliver that same beauty of construction in a more refined way. Through the beautiful prints, artful silhouettes and unusual detailing they now maintain a new level of finish and completion. Moving on from last season’s whimsical trip to Kansas you can’t help but pull up the Van Gogh references here – there’s sunflowers a plenty in the prints and in some cases in exquisite embroidered appliqué. The show has a very noticeable evolution in it’s self, moving through the sunflowers and honey yellow shades to what I can only describe as macaroon-like pastel shades, perfect tones for spring. We finish the show with a slightly darker twilight mood taking over to bring us the shades of violet and purple that we’ve been seeing quite a bit of this week. There’s not going to much escaping yellow and purple next summer.

There are as always those incredible dresses the Mulleavy sisters are known to deliver, as well as their artful take on the tunic and tapered trousers trend but it’s probably going to be the prints that most people take away from this collection. I imagine we’ll be seeing quite a few takes on sunflowers hitting stores next year. I for one am enjoying watching the slow evolution the brand is having and can’t wait to see what they’ll move it onto next.

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