The Proenza Schouler show is always one of my real highlights from New York Fashion Week. I’ve not known them ever disappoint me in their entire career, and the Spring/Summer 2012 collection was anything put disappointing. The Proenza Schouler girl is above all things, really kind of cool. She can wear period inspired pieces without going overboard, she can wear a conservative buttoned up jacket with tiny matching shorts without even batting an eyelid. It’s a very modern brand with very modern ideals, for very modern girls.
There’s some symmetrical-asymmetry going on throughout this collection if you look closely; the silhouettes stay perfectly neat and symmetrical whilst internally we start to see printed panels not quite matching up and buttons on dresses tugged off to one side. Overall the colour palette is quite interesting, brown and black aren’t particularly big during the summer collections and it is here that my only real criticism lies. It seems there’s a very slight seasonal confusion happening here, particularly in the elbow length black leather gloves on some looks. It brings an air of a winter collection to the looks.
Print wise we start to see the season’s yellow shades coming through along with various shades of tropical greens. Towards the end there’s a beautiful take on a Hawaiian floral print, intricately beaded onto tailored dresses that have a nod to the forties about them. The Proenza Schouler boys have continued to play around with their unexpected textiles and here they introduced woven raffia dresses creating some interesting semi sheer pieces. There’s also some eel skin skirts in there if you’re the kind of girl who’s down with wearing eel.
It’s nice to see them reference some of the pieces that really started their label, the cropped heavily constructed bra tops and the moulded bust-cup sections on some of the printed dresses have a real feel of their early work to them.
It’s an interesting collection when you hold it up against the lightness we’ve seen coming out of New York this week but there are some definite stand out pieces here and for me it again strengthens some big trends emerging. The slightly longer in the body strapless tops worn with very slimline, slightly cropped trousers is something I can see catching on quite easily. I like the way it looks here, and it’s somewhat similar to how Rodarte interpreted it. There’s something quite 90’s about the idea I feel. The Hawaiian and floral print pieces are going to go down a treat I’m sure along with that pale aqua colour that seems to be surfacing a fair amount this season.