As the S/S 2012 collections begin to make their way into stores and the magazines that fill our newsstands the fashion world’s attention turns instead to the A/W 2012 season and this week saw the start of the menswear shows in Milan.
It’s not always the case but with certain designers the menswear collection does give you some clues into what the womenswear collections will hold, and that’s usually most true of the Burberry Prorsum show. Christopher Bailey took us on a tribal inspired adventure with his last show, but it looks like we’re putting our feet firmly back on English soil for the Autumn/Winter 12 season. It would seem lately Christopher Bailey has been on a mission to reinvent a different from of jacket each season – we had the aviators of the AW11 season, and it was the parka coat that got his attention for SS12. The classically British quilted shooting jacket would appear to have been selected as next season’s must have, with the padded ‘puffa’ coat not too far behind.
These sort of quilted jackets are nothing new to stores lately – we’ve seen them reappearing on mass over the past year, and the Prorsum bunch here are definitely some of the best. Cool enough to be citywear and authentic enough to not be judged as a city kid in the depths of the countryside. Other than the impeccable hunting jackets, there’s a lot of tonal greys particularly with the suiting. Think herringbone tweed and ‘salt and pepper’ greys. A bit Granddad but with a super sharp slim fit.
Proportionally it’s really quite interesting. We see the outerwear pretty severely cropped, with a longer suit jacket coming out below that. To the eye it’s a little odd and to anyone who’s not blessed with the elongated torso of a model I’m not quite sure how that one’s going to work. I’m all for a cropped jacket however, it’s just finding that outfit to make them work well in.
As always the accessories were pretty killer; most notably the studded leather gloves. Bailey does love a bit of studding. He’s also preparing us for a rainy season it would seem with umbrellas galore featuring carved heads – all very country gent walking stick, some even came with a leather shoulder strap giving the illusion of someone actually carrying a gun from the front I imagine.
Colourwise we’re talking greys, olive, mustard, maroon, a beautiful shade of forest green, and then usualy earthy tones that go with a country-inspired collection. It’s nice to see an element of fun with the patchwork bags, polka dot touches and one rather splendid fox print shirt.