To me Sarah Burton has one of the hardest jobs in the industry, maintaing a label’s signature without trying to design ‘in the style of’. Sarah clearly has a much more feminine take than Lee himself did, and that has been very apparent in the collection’s she has shown since his death. The Spring/Summer 2012 is incredibly so, filled with some of the most exquisite craftsmanship around.
The collections Sarah has created and have been of a somewhat similar vein it has to be said, we’ve seen her use almost the same silhouette and same mood in each collection – which is always going to mean she’s met with a certain amount of criticism. McQueen himself was a designer who’d change it up continuously; one season being the polar opposite to the last. Sarah is not that way inclined and in her defense not too many designers are. If this were any other label I really can’t imagine the point would be being brought up so much.
This collection is without any shadow of a doubt, one of the most beautiful creations to come out of the international collections. Once again we see underwater themes being the main inspiration here, coral and crustaceans coming in the form of heavily embellished, and very Burton look. All of these pieces are worthy of some spectacular editorial space next season and I genuinely look forward to seeing them in that context. I’m hoping slightly we see more of a noticeable shift in the next collection, I’d welcome that move. As breathtaking as these pieces may be I can’t help but worry we’re not moving too far forward.