Yesterday’s Giles show saw a return to form for the designer who has for quite some time now been slightly off the boil. When he first entered the British fashion scene his work had a real sense of a fresh new beauty to it but it seemed to be quickly taken over by gimmicks and somewhat tricksy ideas and shows. A sense of trying to hard perhaps.
The inspiration for this collection might well seem very obvious – the swan, but it is however not quite as simplistic as it might look. The mechanical silver swan that sits within the Bowes museum in the North of England inspired Giles Deacon. It’s a piece I know all too well, the museum being somewhere I was regularly taken on trips to growing up. When the clock strikes the hour the mechanical swan comes to life, seemingly moving elegantly down a silver stream.
Metallic’s are certainly going to be around next summer and it’s the silver tones which are really making an appearance, whether it be in full blatant silver numbers of subtly worked into the weaving on flock-like fabrics. The printed trousers movement continues, this time with a distorted swan print silk pair, but it’s the leather and silk cutwork pieces that really stand out in this collection. There’s a red dress towards the end featuring multiple layers of intricate cutwork detailing that’s an amazing example of this. Giles really is back to being excitingly beautiful for me.
There has however been a slight bad smell surrounding this presentation, with reports surfacing this morning of the Giles Deacon team’s efforts to ensure the models walking in their show weren’t able to show up in other designer’s collections. A usual call time for a model before a show is anything from an hour to two hours – depending on exactly how elaborate or complex the hair or make-up is, this show however came with an unprecedented five-hour call time courtesy of Katie Grand. It’s hard enough for designers in London to secure models for their shows and it’s made all more so when things like this happen. It’s apparent to anyone watching that these models did not have five hours worth of hair and make-up.
Play nicely Katie. Karma’s a bitch we hear.